Archive for the ‘Pest Control’ Category

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How to Get Rid of Drain Flies

Friday, December 10th, 2010

You can kills dozens of drain flies and still not be rid of the problem. Since a drain fly can lay anywhere from 10-200 eggs in the sludge that builds up in your drain, you will have a continuous population of flies until you take away their breeding grounds. Follow these steps to remove the source of your drain fly problem:

  1. If you have a hair catcher on your drain, remove and clean it. This may involve loosening screws to release the grate.
  2. With the hair catcher off, use a pipe brush to clean the goop that is serving as the nest for the drain fly eggs off the sides of the pipe.
  3. Once you have scraped a much of the pipe debris off, use a plumbing snake to pullout clumps of hair or solid matter. You can rent a drain snake or buy one at your local hardware store.  This can be a slow process if you want to thoroughly clean your pipes. It’s also messy and not for the squeamish. Don a good thick pair of rubber gloves.
  4. Even with the snake, you probably will not be able to scrape out all of the gunk attracting the drain flies. Use an entire bottle of a strong drain cleaner, allowing it to sit for the maximum time suggested on the direction label.  Follow up with a second bottle if necessary.
  5. Unfortunately, you’re still not finished. You need to get every bit of the organic matter out of the drain.  Run lots of hot water to make sure you’ve cleared away the drain cleaner. This will help clean the drain and protect you from dangerous chemicals splashing in the next step.
  6. Get a plunger with a good seal. They are inexpensive enough to buy a new one for this job. After all the drain cleaner is flushed, plunge until you have cleared the pipes as much as possible.
  7. Finally, boil water in the largest kettle or pot you have and pour that down the drain. Your drain flies will no longer have a happy home – but you will.

For a free estimate, give us a call at 781-986-0701 and mention that you found us from this article.

Tim Taylor, President of Heritage Pest Control in Randolph, MA, is an expert in pest control, with more than 20 years of education and experience in residential and commercial pest control.  Tim has an extensive background in entomology, and is a member of the National and New England Pest Management Associations and the Randolph Chamber of Commerce. Tim is also a 29-year member of the National Guard and is active in national and community activities including Pop Warner Football. Heritage Pest Control serves the greater Boston area including the suburbs of Brookline, Cambridge, Brighton, Allston, Milton, Quincy, Braintree and Canton. For more information, or to contact Tim, CLICK HERE to send a note to Tim or call him at 781-986-0701.

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Are They Drain Flies or Fruit Flies?

Friday, December 10th, 2010

If you are finding fruit flies in your kitchen, especially around your sink or fridge, they may not be fruit flies at all. You could have an infestation of drain flies. A drain fly differs in appearance from a fruit fly in that a drain fly, also known as moth flies or sewer gnats, is fuzzy with a smaller body and larger wings than a fruit fly.

Drain flies, as you may guess by the name, congregate around kitchen drains, laying their eggs in the organic matter that collects in the bottom of your garbage disposal or pipes. One drain fly will lay 10-200 eggs in the build-up of hair, grease, food, etc.  In about two days, the eggs hatch and the drain fly larvae thrive on that same waste in the drain. They emerge as adults in nine to 15 days.

You may see drain flies on walls and flat surfaces during the day. At night they feed and fly in and around the drains. A drain fly lives for about two weeks. You may be able to kill a good number of the flies during the day, but the drain fly larvae can live in the drain and reproduce endlessly. You must get rid of their breeding ground to be rid of them.

It’s not difficult to kill a drain fly. They are rather clumsy and slower than the average house fly. Your best defense is to track the flies back to their source – usually a drain – either in a sink, washroom or basement floor. Cover about ¾ of a drain opening with a piece of tape, sticky side down.  Check it for the next day or two and if that drain is the source of the problem, you will have flies stuck to the tape.

Stay tuned for tips on how to get rid of and prevent drain flies…

For a free estimate, give us a call at 781-986-0701 and mention that you found us from this article.

Tim Taylor, President of Heritage Pest Control in Randolph, MA, is an expert in pest control, with more than 20 years of education and experience in residential and commercial pest control.  Tim has an extensive background in entomology, and is a member of the National and New England Pest Management Associations and the Randolph Chamber of Commerce. Tim is also a 29-year member of the National Guard and is active in national and community activities including Pop Warner Football. Heritage Pest Control serves the greater Boston area including the suburbs of Brookline, Cambridge, Brighton, Allston, Milton, Quincy, Braintree and Canton. For more information, or to contact Tim, CLICK HERE to send a note to Tim or call him at 781-986-0701.

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How to Get Rid of Fruit Flies in Your Home

Tuesday, December 7th, 2010

The good news is that fruit flies are easy to trap. If you find fruit flies in your house, it is important to find where they are coming from and eliminate their breeding areas. Otherwise, no matter what you do to kill the flies you find, your problem will continue.  Fly traps will show you if you have flies, but not necessarily where they are coming from. And, if you leave a fly trap out too long, it can become a breeding ground for the flies itself. Here are some homemade alternatives:

Make your own “catch and release” trap. Put a bit of fruit, wine or cider vinegar in the bottom of a bottle or jar. Roll a piece of paper into a cone and set it on top of the bottle like a funnel. Place the homemade trap wherever you see fruit flies.  The bottle or jar will attract the flies very quickly. You can then take them outside to be killed or released.

For hidden breeding sites such as garbage disposals, drains and areas behind appliances, you can check for fruit flies by putting a tiny bit of fruit in a clear plastic food storage bag and taping it over the entrance of the opening overnight. If flies are breeding in these areas, the adults will emerge and be caught in the bag.

You can also make a froth of dish soap suds in a bowl and set it on your counter. The flies will land in the suds and die.

Since fruit flies congregate, you can use your vacuum to suck up and dispose of flies. However, make sure your vacuum is powerful enough to gather them without them scattering, and make sure it has a good filter (i.e. such as a heap filter).

To avoid fruit fly infestations, I suggest you follow these rules:

In the kitchen:

  • Eat produce before it has a chance to ferment.  If fruit is getting past its prime, refrigerate it or discard it in sealed garbage bags.
  • Cover your fruit bowl or store fruit you wish to keep in the refrigerator.
  • Put new soft fruit in a brown bag to help it ripen and also keep the fruit flies away from the easiest targets. You can leave out fruit with harder skin.
  • Avoid cracked or damaged  pieces of fruit and vegetables. If you discover damage once you empty your shopping bags, cut away and discard the wounded areas to avoid eggs or larvae hiding there.
  • Put a household fan near fruit bowls or food left out for a buffet. Keep the fan blowing across the fruit, since flies cannot land in a cross wind.
  • Never leave out plates of leftover food. Flies can find it in just a few seconds.
  • If you see a plate of food with fruit flies around it, don’t eat it. You may not see anything on the food because the germs and bacteria are microscopic.
  • Drink sweet drinks like soda, milkshakes, sweet tea, etc. in a timely manner. They are fruit fly magnets.
  • If you can your own fruits and vegetables, or if you make wine, cider or beer, make sure your containers are tightly sealed.  Fruit flies will lay their eggs under the lid and the tiny larvae will enter the container upon hatching.
  • Wash all dishes promptly. Run enough water to make sure drains and garbage disposals are clear.
  • Do not put food garbage into waste-paper baskets.
  • Take out your compost and keep your collection bin covered and food additions to your pile buried beneath yard waste.
  • Clean the openings of bottles containing fruit juice, fermented or vinegar products, including ketchup and cooking wine. Make sure caps are sealed well, and keep these items in the refrigerator if possible.
  • Promptly wipe crumbs and spills from your cabinets, counters and floors.
  • Wipe down the rubber seals of your refrigerator door, and clean the evaporation pan underneath.
  • Clean under and around your dishwasher and stove.

Around the house:

  • Launder or wash dishrags with soap every day. Rinse them well and wring them dry before hanging them up. Don’t leave them in the sink.
  • Fit all windows and doors with tight-fitting (16 mesh) screens to help prevent adult fruit flies from entering from outdoors.
  • Take out all trash daily, do not re-use the plastic liner garbage bags, and store trash in a covered bin.
  • After you dump mop water, clean the pail and launder the mop.
  • Remove damp lint from the laundry room.
  • Do not use manure or lake water for fertilizer near the house.

For a free estimate, give us a call at 781-986-0701 and mention that you found us from this article.

Tim Taylor, President of Heritage Pest Control in Randolph, MA, is an expert in pest control, with more than 20 years of education and experience in residential and commercial pest control.  Tim has an extensive background in entomology, and is a member of the National and New England Pest Management Associations and the Randolph Chamber of Commerce. Tim is also a 29-year member of the National Guard and is active in national and community activities including Pop Warner Football. Heritage Pest Control serves the greater Boston area including the suburbs of Brookline, Cambridge, Brighton, Allston, Milton, Quincy, Braintree and Canton. For more information, or to contact Tim, CLICK HERE to send a note to Tim or call him at 781-986-0701.

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What’s Flying Around Your Fruit Can Make You Sick: The Hidden Truth About Fruit Flies

Tuesday, December 7th, 2010

Fruit flies are annoying, but they can also make you sick. Like regular flies, fruit flies breed bacteria.  They transport more than 200 types of bacteria and other organisms and deposit it on fruit, or whatever else they land on. This can cause a host of illnesses including food poisoning and respiratory infections. Senior citizens, infants and people who have compromised immune systems can easily contract these diseases.

When a fruit fly sits down to dinner on your bowl of fruit, it has to liquefy the food before ingesting it. The pest places its spongy mouthparts on the food and secretes saliva or other regurgitated food on it. Humans get sick when they come in contact, or eat, food that has been contaminated through this food-liquefying process or from fruit fly defecation.

Adult fruit flies are about 1/8th inch long, tan and black with red eyes.  They live only 10 days, but they can do a lot of damage in that time. They can travel up to 10 miles in just a couple days, spreading whatever germs they find along the way. They are attracted to decaying plants, food and animal waste.

One piece of rotting fruit in the bottom of the bowl, a single onion hiding in the back of a bin, or a small puddle of fruit juice spilled under the fridge breeds thousands of fruit flies. One fruit fly can lay 500 eggs, which turn into larvae (also known as maggots) and then into adult flies in about a week. The following are the most common sources of fruit fly infestation in your home:

  • Ripened fruits and vegetables
  • Damp flour or food spilled into cracks in the floor or crevices between appliances
  • Drains and garbage disposals
  • Empty bottles and cans
  • Trash containers
  • Mops and cleaning rags

NOTE: They can also fly into your home through inadequately screened windows and doors.

I’ve also written a separate article called “How to Get Rid of Fruit Flies in Your Home.” If you think you may have fruit flies or just want to learn more, look for that article online for more information.

For a free estimate, give us a call at 781-986-0701 and mention that you found us from this article.

Tim Taylor, President of Heritage Pest Control in Randolph, MA, is an expert in pest control, with more than 20 years of education and experience in residential and commercial pest control.  Tim has an extensive background in entomology, and is a member of the National and New England Pest Management Associations and the Randolph Chamber of Commerce. Tim is also a 29-year member of the National Guard and is active in national and community activities including Pop Warner Football. Heritage Pest Control serves the greater Boston area including the suburbs of Brookline, Cambridge, Brighton, Allston, Milton, Quincy, Braintree and Canton. For more information, or to contact Tim, CLICK HERE to send a note to Tim or call him at 781-986-0701.

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Travel Tips to Avoid Bed Bugs

Tuesday, December 7th, 2010

It sounds like a math story problem. There are 40 bed bugs in a hotel room on June 1. If room temperature is 70°F, how many bed bugs will be in the same hotel room six months later on December 1? The answer is 5,905 bugs! According to the National Pest Management Association, of which Heritage Pest Control is a member, bed bug infestations have increased more than 1,000% in the past three years. They say the increase can be blamed on inadequate pest control methods, failure to detect early signs of infestations, and ignoring infestation reports from guests.

This shocking fact illustrates how a bed bug problem can quickly grow into an infestation. Hotels are especially vulnerable because guests unknowingly carry in bed bugs that have infested their luggage, clothing, blankets, and pillows. Even if a room is inspected and bed bugs are eliminated, it can become reinfested with the next traveler who brings in pests. That’s why hotels with high occupancy turnover rates find there is little that can be done to prevent bed bugs. Their only defense is to do daily  inspections, which is rare. That means, if you travel and stay in hotel rooms, there is a very good chance you could bring home bed bugs. All hotel rooms, even upscale ones, are susceptible to bed bugs. So are movie theaters, dorm rooms, restaurants, and offices – but that’s a topic for another article.

It is very hard to get rid of bed bugs, since they have evolved into very hardy pests, immune to many modern pesticides.  Bed bugs hide from light, coming out in the dark to feed – on human blood. You can be bitten up to 500 times in one night if you are in an infested room. If you wake up with red bumps or flat welts that are itchy, you may have been bitten. Even if you don’t notice any bites, they can climb into your suitcase or cling to your clothing for the ride home. Here are some precautions ou can take to avoid bed bugs, and what to do if you find you have brought home the pests from your latest roadtrip.

  • Before you hit the road, check www.bedbugregistry.com to see if the hotel you plan to stay in has had any recent reports of bed bugs. You may also find this info in user reviews on websites like tripadvisor.com. This is still no guarantee that you won’t find bed bugs in the room you stay in, or that previous bed bug problems have been corrected. More important than reports of bed bugs is the feedback travelers leave regarding how hotel management responded to the report.
  • As you pack for your trip, put everything in plastic bags with zip lock seals. Keep the bags sealed while you are in the room. Old fashioned hard-sided luggage with latches rather than zippers offer more protection from bed bugs, since they don’t have the folds and seams where bugs can hide.  Lighter colored luggage will not attract bugs as easily as darker colors, and any bugs that do try to hitch a ride will be easier to see.
  • When you get to your room, leave your bags in the hallway, put them up on a luggage stand, or on the bare bathroom floor.
  • Conduct a room inspection, looking for signs of bed bugs. You may see tiny black spots – this is bed bug excrement. There might be translucent light brown skins or eggs. You may see tiny red or brown blood stains. Or if there is an active infestation, you may see live bugs, about the size of apple seeds. The critters don’t like light, so you are more apt to see the other signs than the bugs themselves. You may also smell a telltale sweet or musty odor.-
  • Take down the bed sheets. Check the mattress along the upper and lower seams, and look under the mattress tag — bed bugs often hide there. Also look where the headboard meets the mattress and check pillow case coverings and dust ruffles.
  • Look for signs of bed bugs in the bedside table drawers. If you see powder in the drawers or on the headboard, this is probably from previous treatment for bed bugs by an exterminator.
  • Check the edges of carpet, wall trim, and behind any loose wallpaper.
  • Check out furniture near the bed, behind picture frames and mirrors.
  • Continue your inspection by examining any furniture or other items near the bed. Pay attention to seams in chair upholstery. The majority of bed bugs live within close proximity to the bed. If you are able, inspect behind the headboard, which is often mounted on the wall in hotel rooms. Also, look behind picture frames and mirrors. Pull out any drawers, using your flashlight to look inside the dresser and nightstand.
  • During your stay, don’t put any clothing on the carpet or upholstered furniture. Undress in the bathroom which has bare floors and bright lighting.
  • If you find any signs of bed bugs, report it immediately to hotel management. Take a picture with your cell phone of the bugs or the evidence they were there. The hotel should move you to a new room immediately, and offer to launder any clothes that may have come in contact with carpet, bedding or upholstered furniture.
  • To make sure you don’t take home undetected bugs or their eggs, inspect your luggage and each item as you pack it. Put clothes in garbage bags and seal them tight.
  • When you get home, do your laundry using hot water (about 120 degrees F.)  Then dry on low heat for 20 minutes to kill any bugs that have snuck inside your bags.  Items that are not washable can be frozen. Keep these items in sealed plastic bags in the freezer for at least five days.
  • After emptying your luggage, look at all the zippers, lining, pockets, and any piping or seams. Steam clean soft-side luggage andwipe down hard-sided pieces of luggage.

For a free estimate, give us a call at 781-986-0701 and mention that you found us from this article.

Tim Taylor, President of Heritage Pest Control in Randolph, MA, is an expert in pest control, with more than 20 years of education and experience in residential and commercial pest control.  Tim has an extensive background in entomology, and is a member of the National and New England Pest Management Associations and the Randolph Chamber of Commerce. Tim is also a 29-year member of the National Guard and is active in national and community activities including Pop Warner Football. Heritage Pest Control serves the greater Boston area including the suburbs of Brookline, Cambridge, Brighton, Allston, Milton, Quincy, Braintree and Canton. For more information, or to contact Tim, CLICK HERE to send a note to Tim or call him at 781-986-0701.

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The Right Way to Get Rid of Termites

Tuesday, November 16th, 2010

In states like Massachusetts where termites are fairly active, it is essential to maintain an effective termite prevention and control program. If you own a home in Massachusetts, talk to your termite control expert about methods to help protect your home from termite infestations and damage. The techniques and materials used to control an infestation vary based on the type of termite, home construction and extent of infestation. The following are the typical ways that professionals use to prevent and treat termite infestations:

Termiticides – This is a chemical spot treatment used for subterranean termite. Termiticides can also be used for complete treatments on all potential entry points and infestation areas around a home.

Termite Monitoring & Bait Systems – This method consists of multiple stations that each have small amounts of poison. Therefore, this treatment is less environmentally invasive than soil treatments. Bait and monitoring stations can be used to detect potential infestations, as well as giving you long-term control for large populations of termites. However, this method is slower-acting than termiticide treatments.

Fumigation – Fumigation is used on large, widespread and deeply hidden drywood termite infestations.Fumigation is very effective in the short-term, but does not protect against reinfestations.

Heat, Cold & Electronic Treatments – Small, localized drywood termite infestations, especially in furniture or out-structures,can be treated with heat or extreme cold. Electronic and microwave treatments also may be used. None of these treatments prevents future infestations.

Green Termite Control – There are several non-toxic or “green” options to get rid of termites. These methods include boric acid, orange oil and biological controls, which include introducing other pests that eat or kill termites. These methods can be less effective and should be done by a pest control expert that is well-versed in green treatment.

If you find that you need a whole-house treatment, it you need to hire a professional since it is complicated process that can use chemicals that cannot be obtained by homeowners. Your home may be infested from underneath, particularly if you have a home on a slab. Termites can live undetected for long periods of time, slowly eating away at any entry points they can find. An exterminator has the tools and expertise to drill through slabs and put poison in to areas under a slab, as well as any of the other entry points termites can squeeze through — which is anything 1/64″ or more. This includes cracks, areas around pipes and cables, expansion joints, etc.

Smaller local pest control companies will often charge less and will do as good a job, if not better, than the large national pest control chains. Ask your neighbors for referrals and check the Better Business bureau before hiring a company. Ask about warranties and how they handle reinfestation. When getting a whole house treatment, a standard unconditional 1-year guarantee against re-infestation is the norm. Many pest control companies offer annual maintenance and retreatment as part of their initial cost, or as an add-on contract.

When Heritage Pest Control treats a house with termiticide (a liquid chemical that gets pumped into the ground) we give a five-year warranty against termite re-infestation.  When we use a combination of termiticide and bait stations we give a one-year warranty which can be extended indefinitely as long as a contract is signed allowing us to come by and inspect and/or re-treat each year.  If we use only bait stations no warranty is given since it can take several years to totally eradicate an infestation using bait stations only.

For a free estimate, give us a call at 781-986-0701 and mention that you found us from this article.

Tim Taylor, President of Heritage Pest Control in Randolph, MA, is an expert in pest control, with more than 20 years of education and experience in residential and commercial pest control.  Tim has an extensive background in entomology, and is a member of the National and New England Pest Management Associations and the Randolph Chamber of Commerce. Tim is also a 29-year member of the National Guard and is active in national and community activities including Pop Warner Football. Heritage Pest Control serves the greater Boston area including the suburbs of Brookline, Cambridge, Brighton, Allston, Milton, Quincy, Braintree and Canton. For more information, or to contact Tim, CLICK HERE to send a note to Tim or call him at 781-986-0701.

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The Anatomy of a Termite: What Signs Do They Leave?

Tuesday, November 16th, 2010

Termites have lived on Earth for more than 250 million years and are part of the ecosystem, helpful in breaking down rotting wood in the environment. When they get in your home, however, they can cause costly damage. They are not easily detected, and can do their dirty work long before a homeowner notices any damage. The best protection against termites in your home is learning what they look like and the signs of damage they produce.

In Massachusetts, the most common species of termites swarm on a warm day after a rainfall. Swarms may occur during the winter in heated buildings. Eastern subterranean termites (which are the most common form of termite in MA) typically swarm during the day from March to May. But regardless of these times, damage from termites can be discovered at any time of the year.

There are about 45 species of termites found in the U.S., each of which falls into one of the three main termite types – subterranean, drywood and dampwood. Each species has unique biology and behavior that impact what part of the country they live in, where they build their nests and their likelihood to damage homes. Massachusetts is at high risk for subterranian termites. But, many cases of drywood and dampwood termites are found each year in MA as well.

Subterranean termites live in the soil and build the largest nests of any insect in the U.S. Their nests connect to each other using channels called “mud tubes” which help protect them, hide them and also supply food. Food sources include trees, fence posts and structural timbers in houses. Subterranean termites, which can live in every U.S. state except Alaska, are responsible for the majority of termite damage in this country.

Drywood termites typically live in wood, such as dead trees, structural timbers or hardwood floors. Drywood termites do not require contact with soil to thrive, and they can also cause significant damage to homes. Drywood colonies tend to be smaller than subterranean termite colonies, so they typically cause damage at a slower rate. They are also difficult to detect, so substantial internal damage can be done before you notice any outward signs of damage to your home.

Dampwood termites live in wood with high moisture content. Most dampwood termites do not require contact with the soil, so they are rarely found in homes or other man-made structures, since wood in these structures typically does not have enough moisture.

To protect your home, you need to learn how to be a termite detective. The first step to identify termites is to recognize a termite as a termite. Many homeowners may fail to make this distinction. To the untrained eye, swarming termites may look like flying ants and worker termites may look like any insect larvae.

It is also recommended that homeowners in areas of the U.S. prone to termite infestation, such as Massachusetts, schedule annual inspections by termite control experts. This is very important since a house with damage from termites often looks the same as any other house on the surface. Termites can build nests hidden inside walls, causing damage for years before it becomes apparent. Termite control experts are trained to spot signs of termite activity, potentially before the colony has damaged the wood inside a home.

There are also some telltale signs of termite infestation you can look for.  Subterranean termites may be detected by the sudden emergence of winged termites, also called swarmers, or by the presence of mud tubes and wood damage. A “swarm” is a group of adult male and female reproductives (i.e. termites that can reproduce and increase their numbers in your home) that leave their colony in an attempt to pair and initiate new colonies.

Large numbers of winged termites swarming from wood or the soil often are the first obvious sign of a nearby termite colony. Swarming occurs from mature colonies that typically contain several thousand termites.

When temperature and moisture conditions are favorable, usually on warm days following a rainfall, swarming occurs during a brief period of typically less than an hour. The pests then quickly shed their wings. Since they are attracted to light, you may find evidence that a swarm occurred indoors when you find wings in window sills, cobwebs, or on other furniture. The presence of winged termites or their shed wings inside a home should be a warning of a termite infestation.

Other common signs of termite damage include:

  • Discolored or sagging sheetrock on the ceiling or walls
  • Floors that buckle or sag
  • Loose tiles
  • Hardwood floor slats that pop up
  • Laminate floors that bubble up or sag
  • Tiny pinpoint holes in drywall (where termites have damaged the paperboard)
  • Bubbling or peeling paint
  • Damaged wood that crumbles easily
  • Jammed doors or windows
  • Wood that sounds hollow when tapped

Experts also are trained to identify termites by their behavior. Subterranean termites build mud tubes, which can be seen on a home’s foundation. Drywood termites push fecal pellets called frass through small holes they make. These pellets form small mounds near wood damage.

The pattern of wood damage also helps a pest control expert identify the type of termite causing the damage. Subterranean termites eat along the wood grain, leaving wood with a honeycomb appearance. Drywood termites eat across and with the grain, excavating large rooms connected by tunnels.

When Heritage Pest Control treats a house with termiticide (a liquid chemical that gets pumped into the ground) we give a five-year warranty against termite re-infestation.  When we use a combination of termiticide and bait stations we give a one-year warranty which can be extended indefinitely as long as a contract is signed allowing us to come by and inspect and/or re-treat each year.  If we use only bait stations no warranty is given since it can take several years to totally eradicate an infestation using bait stations only.

For a free estimate, give us a call at 781-986-0701 and mention that you found us from this article.

Tim Taylor, President of Heritage Pest Control in Randolph, MA, is an expert in pest control, with more than 20 years of education and experience in residential and commercial pest control.  Tim has an extensive background in entomology, and is a member of the National and New England Pest Management Associations and the Randolph Chamber of Commerce. Tim is also a 29-year member of the National Guard and is active in national and community activities including Pop Warner Football. Heritage Pest Control serves the greater Boston area including the suburbs of Brookline, Cambridge, Brighton, Allston, Milton, Quincy, Braintree and Canton. For more information, or to contact Tim, CLICK HERE to send a note to Tim or call him at 781-986-0701.

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Termites – The Silent Destroyers: Target Massachusetts

Tuesday, November 16th, 2010

Each year, homeowners spend more than $5 billion to control termites and repair the damage they cause in approximately 600,000 homes in the United States. In fact, termites cause more damage to U.S. homes than tornadoes, hurricanes, wind and hail storms combined. Unlike weather-related damage, termite damage is not covered by homeowners insurance. And these wood-destroying insects can live in the soil underground and inside wooden structures for long periods of time before their destruction is discovered.

According to Termite Infestation Probability Zones (TIP Zones), most of Massachusetts is located in TIP Zone #2 which is considered moderate to heavy. This means the potential for termite damage is significant. Termites are active across the state, from Boston to Worcester to Springfield, Mass. Termites are less likely to be found along the coast in Cape Cod.  Subterranean termites are known to cause damage to homes in Massachusetts.  Drywood termites are not native to the state, but it is possible for this species to travel in wooden objects, such as furniture and wine crates, and establish colonies in the state. Drywood termites have already been found in areas far from their native habitats.

Termites are often called the “silent destroyers.” They may leave few signs of activity as they steadily consume wood and sheetrock paper in the walls, ceilings and floors of homes. Unfortunately, once you discover the signs of termite activity, your home may have already sustained significant damage.

Damage from termites can range from minor, superficial damage to major structural damage that can cause ceilings or floors to collapse. They can nest in structural timbers, including posts, floor supports, ceiling supports, subfloors and wall studs. Termites also can damage non-structural components, including drywall paperboard, paneling, carpet and furniture. Early detection of termite infestations is crucial to minimize the risk and cost of repairing termite damage. Annual inspections by a trained termite professional can help you detect signs of activity you would not normally notice. In some cases, termite damage can be easily mistaken for water damage. Termite inspectors can discern between structural damage caused by water or wood-destroying insects – including termites, carpenter ants and beetles.

When Heritage Pest Control treats a house with termiticide (a liquid chemical that gets pumped into the ground) we give a five-year warranty against termite re-infestation. When we use a combination of termiticide and bait stations we give a one-year warranty which can be extended indefinitely as long as a contract is signed allowing us to come by and inspect and/or re-treat each year.  If we use only bait stations no warranty is given since it can take several years to totally eradicate an infestation using bait stations only.

For a free estimate, give us a call at 781-986-0701 and mention that you found us from this article.

Tim Taylor, President of Heritage Pest Control in Randolph, MA, is an expert in pest control, with more than 20 years of education and experience in residential and commercial pest control.  Tim has an extensive background in entomology, and is a member of the National and New England Pest Management Associations and the Randolph Chamber of Commerce. Tim is also a 29-year member of the National Guard and is active in national and community activities including Pop Warner Football. Heritage Pest Control serves the greater Boston area including the suburbs of Brookline, Cambridge, Brighton, Allston, Milton, Quincy, Braintree and Canton. For more information, or to contact Tim, CLICK HERE to send a note to Tim or call him at 781-986-0701.

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How Can You Tell If You Have Carpenter Ants?

Wednesday, November 10th, 2010

Carpenter ants vary in size and color but are usually large (1/4 to 1/2 inch) and blackish. You may see worker ants travelling through rooms in search for water or food, or winged ants flying in hopes of escaping to the wild. Occasionally, winged carpenter ants will swarm inside a home. This usually happens in the spring and are a sure sign that a colony has been nesting somewhere inside the structure. Most carpenter ant infestations are small in number, generating only 20 or 30 swarmers. But this population can grow as the ants look for a warm place to spend the winter. If you see more than a few winged black ants in or around your home, steps should be taken to get rid of carpenter ants before they become a more serious problem.

Carpenter ants forage for food within great distances of their nests, and may establish outposts in a number of different locations – both inside and outside of a structure.  Worker ants can travel up to the length of a football field looking for food. Carpenter ants construct two different kinds of nests. Parent colonies mature to contain an egg-laying queen, her brood and 2000 or more worker ants. Satellite colonies, on the other hand, may have large numbers of worker ants but no queen, eggs or young larvae. The carpenter ants inside a home may have originated from the parent colony or from one or more satellite nests. For example, the ants may be coming from the parent nest located outdoors in a tree stump, landscape timber or woodpile, or from one or more satellite nests hidden behind a wall in the kitchen or bathroom, or perhaps from wood dampened by a roof leak in the attic.

The first sign of a carpenter ant infestation is usually the sighting of numerous workers throughout the home.  Indoor infestations can be tracked by points of entry such as attic vents, foundations, cracks, electric wires, pipes and telephone lines. Carpenter ants prefer to nest in structural lumber such as wall voids, hollow doors, windows and foam panels. They typically seek wood that has been softened by moisture, decay or other insects. A positive indication that an active, mature infestation is present is the emergence of large winged ants from walls, ceilings, or crawl spaces.

The mess they leave behind while building their nests often remains hidden behind a wall or in some other concealed area.  In addition to structural lumber, sites such as hollow-core doors, window headers, wall voids, and foam panels are particularly attractive to carpenter ants.

Although carpenter ants do not intentionally destroy wooden structures, they are capable of damaging any wood within which they nest. Carpenter ant infestations can become severe when left untreated, and in some cases, a colony of carpenter ants can develop satellite nests. In order to control an infestation, it is important to identify carpenter ants and their nests. Worker carpenter ants are active mostly at night, so you may not see any activity during normal working hours.

Probing the wood with a screwdriver helps reveal the excavated galleries. Another technique for locating hidden nests is to tap along baseboards and other wood surfaces with the blunt end of a screwdriver, listening for the hollow sound of damaged wood. If a nest is nearby, carpenter ants often will respond by making a clicking or “rustling” sound within the nest, similar to the crinkling of cellophane. You can also use a stethoscope to listen to sounds of carpenter ants deep within your walls.

For a free estimate, give us a call at 781-986-0701 and mention that you found us from this article.

Tim Taylor, President of Heritage Pest Control in Randolph, MA, is an expert in pest control, with more than 20 years of education and experience in residential and commercial pest control.  Tim has an extensive background in entomology, and is a member of the National and New England Pest Management Associations and the Randolph Chamber of Commerce. Tim is also a 29-year member of the National Guard and is active in national and community activities including Pop Warner Football. Heritage Pest Control serves the greater Boston area including the suburbs of Brookline, Cambridge, Brighton, Allston, Milton, Quincy, Braintree and Canton. For more information, or to contact Tim, CLICK HERE to send a note to Tim or call him at 781-986-0701.

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The Damage Ants Do: Are They Carpenter Ants or Termites?

Wednesday, November 10th, 2010

Are you finding big black ants in your house? Have you found one or two in the kitchen or bathroom? Have you tried to spray these areas, but find the ants keep coming back? If this sounds like what you are experiencing, you probably have an infestation of carpenter ants.

Carpenter ants not only are unpleasant sights for homeowners. They cause messes, as well as structural and other damage to the homes where they take up residence.  The damage caused by carpenter ants is a result of nesting. Worker ants excavate galleries for queens to lay eggs and for young ants to develop. You may have one or many more nests in or around your home. The potential damage you may suffer depends on how many nests are actually present within the structure, and how long the infestation has been active. As the number of individual ants inside a colony grows, their expansion through the wood increases, and the more damage they cause. This damage may include causing water leaks around pipes in your kitchen/bathroom/basement, short circuiting your dishwasher, swarming in your kitchen, and destroying wood structures.

Once a colony of carpenter ants has established itself in your home, it will grow and cause increasingly more damage.  Carpenter ants prefer wood that is moist, or is already rotted and should have been replaced. But sometimes they will nest in perfectly dry and healthy wood. Nests are more likely to be found in wood dampened by water leaks, such as around sinks, bathtubs, poorly sealed windows, door frames, roof leaks and poorly flashed chimneys.  Carpenter ants find entries to homes through heating and cooling equipment ducts, windows, telephone wires and cable lines, areas where trees are adjacent to a structure, sheds, porches and firewood stacked near your house. Look for tree branches that may be just above or in contact with the roof.  Firewood piles are prime nesting sites, and nests are often found in the wall void behind a dishwasher, or in a hollow porch column.

While both carpenter ants and termites damage wood, the type of damage they do and the techniques to prevent and get rid of them vary.

However, carpenter ants gain no nutritional value from wood, but damage it to make nests. The immediate damage caused by carpenter ants is not as severe as termite damage. But, carpenter ant nests that go undetected may cause significant damage over a period of years.

To tell if you have carpenter ants or a termite infestation, examine the wood where they have made their nests. While the surface of wood may appear undamaged, carpenter ant galleries can be identified by telltale signs. Because they clean and polish the galleries of their nests, you will see smooth walls that have a sandpapered appearance. Worker ants eject unwanted debris through holes in their nest galleries. This debris is called “frass” and looks like the scraps produced from sharpening a pencil.  You will see these shavings, debris, dead insects and other debris outside of nest openings, especially around windowsills, trapped in spider webs, on window ledges or in light fixtures.

On the other hand, termites and the larvae of some beetles actually eat wood. Wood damaged by termites will contain a large amount of soil or mud-like material. Winged carpenter ants can be distinguished from termites by their larger size and shape of their antennae, waist and wings.

For a free estimate, give us a call at 781-986-0701 and mention that you found us from this article.

Tim Taylor, President of Heritage Pest Control in Randolph, MA, is an expert in pest control, with more than 20 years of education and experience in residential and commercial pest control.  Tim has an extensive background in entomology, and is a member of the National and New England Pest Management Associations and the Randolph Chamber of Commerce. Tim is also a 29-year member of the National Guard and is active in national and community activities including Pop Warner Football. Heritage Pest Control serves the greater Boston area including the suburbs of Brookline, Cambridge, Brighton, Allston, Milton, Quincy, Braintree and Canton. For more information, or to contact Tim, CLICK HERE to send a note to Tim or call him at 781-986-0701.

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