Archive for the ‘Blog Posts’ Category

The Anatomy of a Termite: What Signs Do They Leave?

Tuesday, November 16th, 2010

Termites have lived on Earth for more than 250 million years and are part of the ecosystem, helpful in breaking down rotting wood in the environment. When they get in your home, however, they can cause costly damage. They are not easily detected, and can do their dirty work long before a homeowner notices any damage. The best protection against termites in your home is learning what they look like and the signs of damage they produce.

In Massachusetts, the most common species of termites swarm on a warm day after a rainfall. Swarms may occur during the winter in heated buildings. Eastern subterranean termites (which are the most common form of termite in MA) typically swarm during the day from March to May. But regardless of these times, damage from termites can be discovered at any time of the year.

There are about 45 species of termites found in the U.S., each of which falls into one of the three main termite types – subterranean, drywood and dampwood. Each species has unique biology and behavior that impact what part of the country they live in, where they build their nests and their likelihood to damage homes. Massachusetts is at high risk for subterranian termites. But, many cases of drywood and dampwood termites are found each year in MA as well.

Subterranean termites live in the soil and build the largest nests of any insect in the U.S. Their nests connect to each other using channels called “mud tubes” which help protect them, hide them and also supply food. Food sources include trees, fence posts and structural timbers in houses. Subterranean termites, which can live in every U.S. state except Alaska, are responsible for the majority of termite damage in this country.

Drywood termites typically live in wood, such as dead trees, structural timbers or hardwood floors. Drywood termites do not require contact with soil to thrive, and they can also cause significant damage to homes. Drywood colonies tend to be smaller than subterranean termite colonies, so they typically cause damage at a slower rate. They are also difficult to detect, so substantial internal damage can be done before you notice any outward signs of damage to your home.

Dampwood termites live in wood with high moisture content. Most dampwood termites do not require contact with the soil, so they are rarely found in homes or other man-made structures, since wood in these structures typically does not have enough moisture.

To protect your home, you need to learn how to be a termite detective. The first step to identify termites is to recognize a termite as a termite. Many homeowners may fail to make this distinction. To the untrained eye, swarming termites may look like flying ants and worker termites may look like any insect larvae.

It is also recommended that homeowners in areas of the U.S. prone to termite infestation, such as Massachusetts, schedule annual inspections by termite control experts. This is very important since a house with damage from termites often looks the same as any other house on the surface. Termites can build nests hidden inside walls, causing damage for years before it becomes apparent. Termite control experts are trained to spot signs of termite activity, potentially before the colony has damaged the wood inside a home.

There are also some telltale signs of termite infestation you can look for.  Subterranean termites may be detected by the sudden emergence of winged termites, also called swarmers, or by the presence of mud tubes and wood damage. A “swarm” is a group of adult male and female reproductives (i.e. termites that can reproduce and increase their numbers in your home) that leave their colony in an attempt to pair and initiate new colonies.

Large numbers of winged termites swarming from wood or the soil often are the first obvious sign of a nearby termite colony. Swarming occurs from mature colonies that typically contain several thousand termites.

When temperature and moisture conditions are favorable, usually on warm days following a rainfall, swarming occurs during a brief period of typically less than an hour. The pests then quickly shed their wings. Since they are attracted to light, you may find evidence that a swarm occurred indoors when you find wings in window sills, cobwebs, or on other furniture. The presence of winged termites or their shed wings inside a home should be a warning of a termite infestation.

Other common signs of termite damage include:

  • Discolored or sagging sheetrock on the ceiling or walls
  • Floors that buckle or sag
  • Loose tiles
  • Hardwood floor slats that pop up
  • Laminate floors that bubble up or sag
  • Tiny pinpoint holes in drywall (where termites have damaged the paperboard)
  • Bubbling or peeling paint
  • Damaged wood that crumbles easily
  • Jammed doors or windows
  • Wood that sounds hollow when tapped

Experts also are trained to identify termites by their behavior. Subterranean termites build mud tubes, which can be seen on a home’s foundation. Drywood termites push fecal pellets called frass through small holes they make. These pellets form small mounds near wood damage.

The pattern of wood damage also helps a pest control expert identify the type of termite causing the damage. Subterranean termites eat along the wood grain, leaving wood with a honeycomb appearance. Drywood termites eat across and with the grain, excavating large rooms connected by tunnels.

When Heritage Pest Control treats a house with termiticide (a liquid chemical that gets pumped into the ground) we give a five-year warranty against termite re-infestation.  When we use a combination of termiticide and bait stations we give a one-year warranty which can be extended indefinitely as long as a contract is signed allowing us to come by and inspect and/or re-treat each year.  If we use only bait stations no warranty is given since it can take several years to totally eradicate an infestation using bait stations only.

For a free estimate, give us a call at 781-986-0701 and mention that you found us from this article.

Tim Taylor, President of Heritage Pest Control in Randolph, MA, is an expert in pest control, with more than 20 years of education and experience in residential and commercial pest control.  Tim has an extensive background in entomology, and is a member of the National and New England Pest Management Associations and the Randolph Chamber of Commerce. Tim is also a 29-year member of the National Guard and is active in national and community activities including Pop Warner Football. Heritage Pest Control serves the greater Boston area including the suburbs of Brookline, Cambridge, Brighton, Allston, Milton, Quincy, Braintree and Canton. For more information, or to contact Tim, CLICK HERE to send a note to Tim or call him at 781-986-0701.

Termites – The Silent Destroyers: Target Massachusetts

Tuesday, November 16th, 2010

Each year, homeowners spend more than $5 billion to control termites and repair the damage they cause in approximately 600,000 homes in the United States. In fact, termites cause more damage to U.S. homes than tornadoes, hurricanes, wind and hail storms combined. Unlike weather-related damage, termite damage is not covered by homeowners insurance. And these wood-destroying insects can live in the soil underground and inside wooden structures for long periods of time before their destruction is discovered.

According to Termite Infestation Probability Zones (TIP Zones), most of Massachusetts is located in TIP Zone #2 which is considered moderate to heavy. This means the potential for termite damage is significant. Termites are active across the state, from Boston to Worcester to Springfield, Mass. Termites are less likely to be found along the coast in Cape Cod.  Subterranean termites are known to cause damage to homes in Massachusetts.  Drywood termites are not native to the state, but it is possible for this species to travel in wooden objects, such as furniture and wine crates, and establish colonies in the state. Drywood termites have already been found in areas far from their native habitats.

Termites are often called the “silent destroyers.” They may leave few signs of activity as they steadily consume wood and sheetrock paper in the walls, ceilings and floors of homes. Unfortunately, once you discover the signs of termite activity, your home may have already sustained significant damage.

Damage from termites can range from minor, superficial damage to major structural damage that can cause ceilings or floors to collapse. They can nest in structural timbers, including posts, floor supports, ceiling supports, subfloors and wall studs. Termites also can damage non-structural components, including drywall paperboard, paneling, carpet and furniture. Early detection of termite infestations is crucial to minimize the risk and cost of repairing termite damage. Annual inspections by a trained termite professional can help you detect signs of activity you would not normally notice. In some cases, termite damage can be easily mistaken for water damage. Termite inspectors can discern between structural damage caused by water or wood-destroying insects – including termites, carpenter ants and beetles.

When Heritage Pest Control treats a house with termiticide (a liquid chemical that gets pumped into the ground) we give a five-year warranty against termite re-infestation. When we use a combination of termiticide and bait stations we give a one-year warranty which can be extended indefinitely as long as a contract is signed allowing us to come by and inspect and/or re-treat each year.  If we use only bait stations no warranty is given since it can take several years to totally eradicate an infestation using bait stations only.

For a free estimate, give us a call at 781-986-0701 and mention that you found us from this article.

Tim Taylor, President of Heritage Pest Control in Randolph, MA, is an expert in pest control, with more than 20 years of education and experience in residential and commercial pest control.  Tim has an extensive background in entomology, and is a member of the National and New England Pest Management Associations and the Randolph Chamber of Commerce. Tim is also a 29-year member of the National Guard and is active in national and community activities including Pop Warner Football. Heritage Pest Control serves the greater Boston area including the suburbs of Brookline, Cambridge, Brighton, Allston, Milton, Quincy, Braintree and Canton. For more information, or to contact Tim, CLICK HERE to send a note to Tim or call him at 781-986-0701.

How Can You Tell If You Have Carpenter Ants?

Wednesday, November 10th, 2010

Carpenter ants vary in size and color but are usually large (1/4 to 1/2 inch) and blackish. You may see worker ants travelling through rooms in search for water or food, or winged ants flying in hopes of escaping to the wild. Occasionally, winged carpenter ants will swarm inside a home. This usually happens in the spring and are a sure sign that a colony has been nesting somewhere inside the structure. Most carpenter ant infestations are small in number, generating only 20 or 30 swarmers. But this population can grow as the ants look for a warm place to spend the winter. If you see more than a few winged black ants in or around your home, steps should be taken to get rid of carpenter ants before they become a more serious problem.

Carpenter ants forage for food within great distances of their nests, and may establish outposts in a number of different locations – both inside and outside of a structure.  Worker ants can travel up to the length of a football field looking for food. Carpenter ants construct two different kinds of nests. Parent colonies mature to contain an egg-laying queen, her brood and 2000 or more worker ants. Satellite colonies, on the other hand, may have large numbers of worker ants but no queen, eggs or young larvae. The carpenter ants inside a home may have originated from the parent colony or from one or more satellite nests. For example, the ants may be coming from the parent nest located outdoors in a tree stump, landscape timber or woodpile, or from one or more satellite nests hidden behind a wall in the kitchen or bathroom, or perhaps from wood dampened by a roof leak in the attic.

The first sign of a carpenter ant infestation is usually the sighting of numerous workers throughout the home.  Indoor infestations can be tracked by points of entry such as attic vents, foundations, cracks, electric wires, pipes and telephone lines. Carpenter ants prefer to nest in structural lumber such as wall voids, hollow doors, windows and foam panels. They typically seek wood that has been softened by moisture, decay or other insects. A positive indication that an active, mature infestation is present is the emergence of large winged ants from walls, ceilings, or crawl spaces.

The mess they leave behind while building their nests often remains hidden behind a wall or in some other concealed area.  In addition to structural lumber, sites such as hollow-core doors, window headers, wall voids, and foam panels are particularly attractive to carpenter ants.

Although carpenter ants do not intentionally destroy wooden structures, they are capable of damaging any wood within which they nest. Carpenter ant infestations can become severe when left untreated, and in some cases, a colony of carpenter ants can develop satellite nests. In order to control an infestation, it is important to identify carpenter ants and their nests. Worker carpenter ants are active mostly at night, so you may not see any activity during normal working hours.

Probing the wood with a screwdriver helps reveal the excavated galleries. Another technique for locating hidden nests is to tap along baseboards and other wood surfaces with the blunt end of a screwdriver, listening for the hollow sound of damaged wood. If a nest is nearby, carpenter ants often will respond by making a clicking or “rustling” sound within the nest, similar to the crinkling of cellophane. You can also use a stethoscope to listen to sounds of carpenter ants deep within your walls.

For a free estimate, give us a call at 781-986-0701 and mention that you found us from this article.

Tim Taylor, President of Heritage Pest Control in Randolph, MA, is an expert in pest control, with more than 20 years of education and experience in residential and commercial pest control.  Tim has an extensive background in entomology, and is a member of the National and New England Pest Management Associations and the Randolph Chamber of Commerce. Tim is also a 29-year member of the National Guard and is active in national and community activities including Pop Warner Football. Heritage Pest Control serves the greater Boston area including the suburbs of Brookline, Cambridge, Brighton, Allston, Milton, Quincy, Braintree and Canton. For more information, or to contact Tim, CLICK HERE to send a note to Tim or call him at 781-986-0701.

The Damage Ants Do: Are They Carpenter Ants or Termites?

Wednesday, November 10th, 2010

Are you finding big black ants in your house? Have you found one or two in the kitchen or bathroom? Have you tried to spray these areas, but find the ants keep coming back? If this sounds like what you are experiencing, you probably have an infestation of carpenter ants.

Carpenter ants not only are unpleasant sights for homeowners. They cause messes, as well as structural and other damage to the homes where they take up residence.  The damage caused by carpenter ants is a result of nesting. Worker ants excavate galleries for queens to lay eggs and for young ants to develop. You may have one or many more nests in or around your home. The potential damage you may suffer depends on how many nests are actually present within the structure, and how long the infestation has been active. As the number of individual ants inside a colony grows, their expansion through the wood increases, and the more damage they cause. This damage may include causing water leaks around pipes in your kitchen/bathroom/basement, short circuiting your dishwasher, swarming in your kitchen, and destroying wood structures.

Once a colony of carpenter ants has established itself in your home, it will grow and cause increasingly more damage.  Carpenter ants prefer wood that is moist, or is already rotted and should have been replaced. But sometimes they will nest in perfectly dry and healthy wood. Nests are more likely to be found in wood dampened by water leaks, such as around sinks, bathtubs, poorly sealed windows, door frames, roof leaks and poorly flashed chimneys.  Carpenter ants find entries to homes through heating and cooling equipment ducts, windows, telephone wires and cable lines, areas where trees are adjacent to a structure, sheds, porches and firewood stacked near your house. Look for tree branches that may be just above or in contact with the roof.  Firewood piles are prime nesting sites, and nests are often found in the wall void behind a dishwasher, or in a hollow porch column.

While both carpenter ants and termites damage wood, the type of damage they do and the techniques to prevent and get rid of them vary.

However, carpenter ants gain no nutritional value from wood, but damage it to make nests. The immediate damage caused by carpenter ants is not as severe as termite damage. But, carpenter ant nests that go undetected may cause significant damage over a period of years.

To tell if you have carpenter ants or a termite infestation, examine the wood where they have made their nests. While the surface of wood may appear undamaged, carpenter ant galleries can be identified by telltale signs. Because they clean and polish the galleries of their nests, you will see smooth walls that have a sandpapered appearance. Worker ants eject unwanted debris through holes in their nest galleries. This debris is called “frass” and looks like the scraps produced from sharpening a pencil.  You will see these shavings, debris, dead insects and other debris outside of nest openings, especially around windowsills, trapped in spider webs, on window ledges or in light fixtures.

On the other hand, termites and the larvae of some beetles actually eat wood. Wood damaged by termites will contain a large amount of soil or mud-like material. Winged carpenter ants can be distinguished from termites by their larger size and shape of their antennae, waist and wings.

For a free estimate, give us a call at 781-986-0701 and mention that you found us from this article.

Tim Taylor, President of Heritage Pest Control in Randolph, MA, is an expert in pest control, with more than 20 years of education and experience in residential and commercial pest control.  Tim has an extensive background in entomology, and is a member of the National and New England Pest Management Associations and the Randolph Chamber of Commerce. Tim is also a 29-year member of the National Guard and is active in national and community activities including Pop Warner Football. Heritage Pest Control serves the greater Boston area including the suburbs of Brookline, Cambridge, Brighton, Allston, Milton, Quincy, Braintree and Canton. For more information, or to contact Tim, CLICK HERE to send a note to Tim or call him at 781-986-0701.

Get Rid Of Stink Bugs Without Harming Your Home

Monday, November 1st, 2010


Stink bugs have a shield shaped body which is very wide and measures about 1/2 inch long.  The most common species range in color from green to brown. Although, one species is a bright red and black.  The Brown Marmorated Stink Bug (BMSB) has lighter bands on the antennae and darker bands on the rear of the front pair of wings.  They have patches of coppery or bluish-metallic colored punctures (small rounded depressions) on the head. The eyes are a deep red. The eggs are elliptical (1.6 x 1.3 mm), and are light yellow to yellow-red in color with minute spines forming fine lines. They are typically attached side-by-side to the underside of leaves in masses of 20 to 30 eggs.

How To Get Rid Of Stink Bugs

Stink bugs are persistent and smelly.  Getting rid of them will require some patience and professional help.  In the meantime, you can use a vacuum to remove both live and dead stink bugs. Vacuums with bags are good, since you can immediately seal, remove and discard them.

Even if you change the bag or empty the canister frequently, however, the vacuum may acquire the smell of stink bugs for a period of time.

If you are in a stink bug susceptible area, prevention is your best course of action. If numerous bugs are entering the living areas of your home, attempt to locate the openings where the insects gained access.  If you are bug-free, take time to repair damaged screens on doors and windows, and loose bits of flashing.

Use silicone or silicone-latex caulk on the following areas:

  • window frames,
  • door frames,
  • base mouldings,
  • around light fixtures exhaust fans,
  • cracks in siding,
  • around utility pipes,
  • behind chimneys ,
  • underneath wood fascia,
  • around attic vents,
  • around any openings where utility pipes and wires enter your house.

You can also paint or stain your home, using NBS Paint/Stain Additive, for some long term stinkbug repellency. Stinkbugs don’t like it (neither do wasps, boxelder bugs, ladybugs and other invasive insects) and they’ll avoid siding, fencing, railing, decks, logs, overhangs, soffits and any place NBS has been used. It can be added to any paint or stain and will last 1-2 years. It is made from plant oils and is a 100% natural product rather than a pesticide.

For current infestations, you will need to kill off the returning adults and keep new ones from establishing themselves in your home before you will have a stink bug free winter.  It will take 1-2 seasons and usually a year or more to break the reproduction cycle that may be happening deep inside attics, crawl spaces and wall voids.

The bugs are covered in a hard armor, which protects them from the effects of consumer pesticides.  Since many pesticides are broken down by exposure to sunlight, the residual effect of such applications may not last more than a week.  It is ineffective to spray products inside your home. They will not prevent insects from coming in through unsealed crevices. Stink bugs will readily move to untreated sides trying to find ways into the homes which have been shelters in the past.

It is not advisable to use an insecticide inside after the insects have gained access to the wall voids or attic areas. Carpet beetles will feed on the dead stink bugs and subsequently attack woolens, stored dry goods, grain products of all kinds, pet food, and many other food items.

The best thing to do is call a licensed structural pest control operator who can apply special products in the fall, just before insects begin to congregate.

For a free estimate, give us a call at 781-986-0701 and mention that you found us from this article.

Tim Taylor, President of Heritage Pest Control in Randolph, MA, is an expert in pest control, with more than 20 years of education and experience in residential and commercial pest control.  Tim has an extensive background in entomology, and is a member of the National and New England Pest Management Associations and the Randolph Chamber of Commerce. Tim is also a 29-year member of the National Guard and is active in national and community activities including Pop Warner Football. Heritage Pest Control serves the greater Boston area including the suburbs of Brookline, Cambridge, Brighton, Allston, Milton, Quincy, Braintree and Canton. For more information, or to contact Tim, CLICK HERE to send a note to Tim or call him at 781-986-0701.

A Bug Problem That Really Stinks: What Are Stink Bugs?

Friday, October 29th, 2010

Last week, it was reported that farms on Long Island were being overrun by stink bugs, threatening to kills millions of dollars in crops.  But it’s not just farmers who have to deal with these ugly smelly pests. Homeowners throughout the U.S., and especially in New England, are dealing with stink bugs in their outdoor gardens and inside their homes.  Entomologists are saying the stink bug problem will make the bed bug resurgence look tame in comparison.

Stink bugs live up to their name.  When crushed or disturbed, their glands squirt a foul-smelling liquid described as rancid almonds or moldy fruit. This smell enables them to avoid getting eaten by several species of birds and lizards. If many of them are squashed or pulled into a vacuum cleaner, their smell can be quite apparent.

Stink bugs will release their stench onto most any surface they land and it will last a long time – 6 months or more.  This lingering odor attracts other stink bugs that have hibernated nearby, as well as new stink bugs looking for a good place to reside for the upcoming winter. And once your home has been “stunk up,” the stink bugs will return year after year. So even though they are gone during the summer, don’t be surprised when they return next fall.  Dead stink bugs are not good news either – stink bug corpses can attract scavenger insects like carpet beetles that can cause you even more expensive trouble.

Not only do these nasty bugs emit an odor, but many people have allergic reactions to this secretion. Try not to handle them, and be careful if you do – not only will they release that nasty smell but many species are able to inflict a nasty bite, stabbing you with the same sharp proboscis they use to pierce fruit and suck plant juices.  Covered in an armor-like shell, the bugs can be frightening when they enter your home and noisily fly about.

Like boxelder bugs, and the Asian multicolored lady beetles I wrote about in another article, brown marmorated stink bugs (BMSB) are generally found in the garden.  A few around the garden won’t do a lot of harm. However, if you have them eating the very produce you are trying to grow, the damage they do will quickly ruin all your effort.  Feeding on tree fruits such as apples results in a characteristic distortion referred to as “cat facing,” that renders the fruit unmarketable as a fresh product.

The real problem happens when stink bugs find their way into homes and structures. They are attracted to light and begin to invade the home during the long summer nights when porch and deck lights are on and doors are being opened and closed. Then when the fall evenings start getting colder, and days become shorter, stink bugs will ramp up their efforts to seek a warm place to spend the winter, where they are sheltered from rain, cold and other elements.

You may find them clinging to your screens and siding, creeping up your walls, hiding in your lamp shades and nestling in your laundry baskets. They will work their way into cracks and crevices, under siding, into soffits, around window and door frames, under roof shingles and into any crawl space or attic vent which has openings small enough to fit them. Since stink bugs like to live in the home for a long time, they often forage into attics and wall voids.  Once inside the home, they will become active all through the winter.

But here’s the good news: They don’t reproduce indoors and they don’t feed on much of anything. They do not eat fabric or furniture and they aren’t poisonous.  In fact, the Vietnamese eat them fried, like popcorn.

For a free estimate, give us a call at 781-986-0701 and mention that you found us from this article.

Tim Taylor, President of Heritage Pest Control in Randolph, MA, is an expert in pest control, with more than 20 years of education and experience in residential and commercial pest control.  Tim has an extensive background in entomology, and is a member of the National and New England Pest Management Associations and the Randolph Chamber of Commerce. Tim is also a 29-year member of the National Guard and is active in national and community activities including Pop Warner Football. Heritage Pest Control serves the greater Boston area including the suburbs of Brookline, Cambridge, Brighton, Allston, Milton, Quincy, Braintree and Canton. For more information, or to contact Tim, CLICK HERE to send a note to Tim or call him at 781-986-0701.

How to prevent ladybugs from becoming a problem in your home

Thursday, October 28th, 2010

Caulking exterior cracks and crevices is the best way to keep ladybugs out. This will also keep out other unwanted insects such as wasps and will save homeowners money on energy costs. The time to do this is in late spring or summer, before the adults begin searching for overwintering sites. During late winter or early spring, barrier treatments are ineffective since the beetles gained entry the previous autumn. While sealing cracks and openings is a more permanent way to limit beetle entry, the approach is time-consuming and sometimes impractical. There can be countless cracks associated with eaves, siding, vents, windows, doors, soffits, fascia boards, utility pipes and wires where insects can enter. On multi-story buildings, sealing becomes even more difficult. Gaps of 1/8″ or less will permit entry of lady beetles and other insects.  Some homeowners may find it more practical to hire a pest control firm, building contractor or painter to perform these services.

Multicolored Asian lady beetles are attracted to lighter colors: whites, grays, and yellows. So, light-colored houses, especially those that are illuminated by the sun (typically the south or southwest side), or those situated on hillsides in forested areas, serve as “homing beacons.”

How to get rid of ladybugs once they move in

Unfortunately, there is no “quick fix” or easy answer to annual lady beetle invasions. Vacuuming, pest proofing and properly timed exterior insecticide treatments can provide relief but will not prevent entry of every single beetle.

Some of the beetles will die when temperatures drop below freezing. But that doesn’t help if they have already taken up residence inside buildings and other protected locations, especially if adequate moisture or humidity is available. Sweeping and vacuuming are effective methods for removing these lady beetles from living areas. If you later wish to release the beetles outdoors, place a handkerchief between the vacuum hose and the dust collection bag to act as a trap. A broom can also be used, but is more likely to result in staining when beetles emit their yellowish defensive secretion. Light traps can be useful for capturing flies and lady beetles in dark confined spaces such as attics, but will capture relatively few beetles entering living spaces in the fall or emerging from hidden locations the following spring.

Using insecticides indoors for control of the lady beetles is not typically recommended unless the infestation is very heavy, and professional pest control advice should be sought. If lady beetles are a perennial problem, owners may want to hire a professional pest control firm.  Many companies apply insecticides to building exteriors in the fall, which helps prevent pest entry. Fast-acting residual insecticides can be sprayed in a targeted band around windows, doors, eaves, soffits, attic vents, and other likely points of entry.

For a free estimate, give us a call at 781-986-0701 and mention that you found us from this article.

Tim Taylor, President of Heritage Pest Control in Randolph, MA, is an expert in pest control, with more than 20 years of education and experience in residential and commercial pest control.  Tim has an extensive background in entomology, and is a member of the National and New England Pest Management Associations and the Randolph Chamber of Commerce. Tim is also a 29-year member of the National Guard and is active in national and community activities including Pop Warner Football. Heritage Pest Control serves the greater Boston area including the suburbs of Brookline, Cambridge, Brighton, Allston, Milton, Quincy, Braintree and Canton. For more information, or to contact Tim, CLICK HERE to send a note to Tim or call him at 781-986-0701.

Why are ladybugs in my house?

Wednesday, October 27th, 2010

Like many other pests, the spotted ladybug seeks a warm place as soon as the Fall weather starts to turn. Most of the “regular” lady beetles head for the hills in the fall and shelter in natural cavities. But the multicolored Asian lady beetle likes to spend winters at lower elevations. Our homes are perfect shelters for them.  In many areas of the U.S., Asian lady beetles can swarm in very large numbers, to the point that they affect quality of life.

They prefer to cluster on the sides of homes and other buildings, and as temperatures decrease, they eventually work their way into the building through small cracks or crevices, or natural breaks in the window panes, door jams or foundations. Once inside they crawl about on windows, walls, attics, and wall voids. When the heating is turned on, the beetles move into the living areas of the home. So once they gain entry they can be a pest all winter long. They will hibernate until the first warm days of late winter or early spring, and then they seem to come to life again and begin crawling about. Some good news here is that lady beetles are not structure-damaging pests, unlike insects such as termites and carpenter ants. Lady beetles do not chew or bore holes in walls or eat carpet or furniture. And they do not lay their eggs in homes.

Why are they here?

You can thank science and the US government for the large numbers of Asian Lady Beetles, which sometimes are seen in epidemic proportion. This insect was imported and released as early as 1916 in attempts to naturally control certain insect pests. From the 1960s to 1990s, the U.S. Department of Agriculture imported thousands of Asian lady beetles to control agricultural pests, especially in areas that grow pecans and apples. Large numbers of the beetles were released in several states including Georgia, South Carolina, Louisiana, Mississippi, California, Washington, Pennsylvania, Connecticut and Maryland. In addition, accidental entries have occurred via imported nursery items at ports in Delaware and South Carolina. Some scientists believe that current infestations in the U.S. originated not from these intentional releases, but from beetles accidentally transported into New Orleans on a freighter from Japan. The multicolored Asian lady beetle was first recorded as a pest in houses in 1988 in Abita Springs, Louisiana. Large numbers of lady beetles were reported to be infesting homes and buildings in other parts of the United States in the early 1990s. The beetle has rapidly expanded its range and is now commonly found throughout much of the U.S.

How to “spot” an Asian Lady Beetle (Asian Ladybug)

Adult Asian lady beetles are oval, convex, and about 1/4-inch long. Their color can vary widely from tan to orange to red. They often have several black spots on the wing covers, although on some beetles the spots may be indistinct or entirely absent. Multi-spotted individuals tend to be females while those with few or no spots tend to be males. Most beetles have a small, dark “M” or “W”-shaped marking on the whitish area behind the head.

The multicolored Asian lady beetle adults begin laying eggs on host plants in early spring. Eggs are yellow, oval, and typically are laid in clusters on the undersides of leaves. The immatures (larvae) are often orange and black and shaped somewhat like tiny alligators. Larvae complete their development on plants where their primary food (aphids) is abundant. The non-mobile cocoon, or pupal stage, remains attached to vegetation by its molted skin, but occasionally may be found clinging to exterior walls of buildings. Eggs hatch in about three to five days, and larvae begin searching on plants for aphids and other soft-bodied arthropods on which to feed. Adults and larvae typically feed upon the same prey. Larvae molt four times, becoming larger after each molt, and enter an immobile pupal stage after the last molt.

For a free estimate, give us a call at 781-986-0701 and mention that you found us from this article.

Tim Taylor, President of Heritage Pest Control in Randolph, MA, is an expert in pest control, with more than 20 years of education and experience in residential and commercial pest control.  Tim has an extensive background in entomology, and is a member of the National and New England Pest Management Associations and the Randolph Chamber of Commerce. Tim is also a 29-year member of the National Guard and is active in national and community activities including Pop Warner Football. Heritage Pest Control serves the greater Boston area including the suburbs of Brookline, Cambridge, Brighton, Allston, Milton, Quincy, Braintree and Canton. For more information, or to contact Tim, CLICK HERE to send a note to Tim or call him at 781-986-0701.

Ladybug, Ladybug, Fly Away From My House

Tuesday, October 26th, 2010

You may have heard the saying that ladybugs are lucky. Many cultures link the sighting of a ladybug with future luck in love, good weather, a financial windfall, or the granting of wishes. Having a ladybug land on you is particularly lucky in some cultures, and some people believe that when a ladybug lands on an object, that object will be replaced by a new and improved version. But if you have ladybugs surrounding and invading your home by the dozens, hundreds or even thousands, you may not consider yourself so lucky. If you are seeing large congregations of the colorful little beetles, it’s not ladybugs – it’s the Asian beetle. These relatives of the well-known red and black lucky ladybug have become a homeowner’s worst nightmare.

One of the most common superstitions about ladybugs is that killing a beetle will bring bad luck. There are two practical reasons for this superstition. Protecting ladybugs is important to farmers since the lady beetles, as they are also called, feast on harmful plant-eating pests such as aphids and other soft-bodied arthropods. The Asian beetle is a voracious predator of aphids and similar unwanted insects on trees, shrubs, and crops. Adults are capable of consuming 90 to 270 aphids per day and larvae can consume between 600 and 1,200 aphids during its lifecycle.

If you’re a homeowner, there is another good reason you might not want to kill a lady bug. If agitated or squashed, the beetles have defensive reaction known as “reflex bleeding.”  When smashed, they release a yellow fluid with a strong unpleasant odor from their leg joints. This protects the ladybug from being eaten by birds. But around the home, the fluid leaves nasty stains on siding, walls and fabrics that is difficult to remove.  When large numbers of them take up residence in a home, they will crawl all over the walls, windows, light fixtures and many other surfaces.  Because ladybugs are tree-dwelling insects, homes and buildings in forested areas are especially prone to infestation. Suburban and landscaped industrial settings adjacent to wooded areas have also had large Asian beetle aggregations.

In the fall, they often land on clothing and occasionally will bite. The bite feels like a pinprick and is seldom serious. Although Asian lady beetles do not transmit diseases per se, recent studies suggest that infestations can cause allergies in some individuals, ranging from eye irritation to asthma. People should avoid touching their eyes after handling the beetles and should consult a physician if they suspect they are having an allergic reaction. It is a good idea to wash hands or other skin after contacting the beetles. In at least one study, the severity of sinus problems subsided with the removal of beetles from the home.

Asian lady beetles are also becoming a concern of the wine industry. Due to their noxious odor, even small numbers of beetles inadvertently processed along with grapes can taint the flavor of wine.

For a free estimate, give us a call at 781-986-0701 and mention that you found us from this article.

Tim Taylor, President of Heritage Pest Control in Randolph, MA, is an expert in pest control, with more than 20 years of education and experience in residential and commercial pest control.  Tim has an extensive background in entomology, and is a member of the National and New England Pest Management Associations and the Randolph Chamber of Commerce. Tim is also a 29-year member of the National Guard and is active in national and community activities including Pop Warner Football. Heritage Pest Control serves the greater Boston area including the suburbs of Brookline, Cambridge, Brighton, Allston, Milton, Quincy, Braintree and Canton. For more information, or to contact Tim, CLICK HERE to send a note to Tim or call him at 781-986-0701.

Are You Putting Out a Welcome Mat for a Mouse? How to Prevent and Get Rid of Mice

Tuesday, October 19th, 2010

As the weather turns colder, just like many of us, mice are looking for warm and dry places to spend the winter.  The first step in controlling mice turning your home into a vacation spot is to prevent their entry. That’s easier said than done. An adult mouse can squeeze through an extremely small opening, as small as the diameter of a pencil. You don’t need gaping holes in your foundation to set out the welcome mat for mice. Every pipe and cable that goes into your house through a wall provides an entryway. The space around pipes especially is usually big enough for a mouse to get through. Before the weather gets cold, check the following to make sure you are not leaving out a welcome mat for mice:

  • Put fresh seals around every utility pipe and cable leading into your house, and look for cracks in your foundation that are ¼” or more.  Also look for gaps under doors.
  • You can use caulking where appropriate, or plug spaces with steel wool or wire mesh. Make sure you are using a material that isn’t something a mouse can chew or use to help make a nest like cardboard, insulation or Styrofoam.
  • Your garage door is an ideal place for mice to come through. Check your weather-stripping, especially on the bottom

Make sure you’re not providing a cafeteria for mice. The average mouse family can live in a very small nesting area and can survive on tiny amounts of food. Mice feed on a wide variety of foods but prefer seeds, cereal, grains, high fat and protein items like nuts, bacon, butter and sweets. Mice are “nibblers” and may make 20-30 visits to different food sites each night.

Even the best sanitation practices don’t always prevent a mouse infestation. You have to be persistent about eliminating their food supply.

  • Keep food in glass jars, metal tins, and airtight storage containers.
  • Rodents can chew through plastic, so your average grocery store container may not be enough to keep them from feasting on peanut butter, bags of chips, etc.
  • Boxes of cereal and other dry foods are easy to access and provide excellent nesting materials.
  • Store as much food as you can in your refrigerator, especially items like fruit and vegetables that are difficult to fit into secure containers.
  • Mice love to share your pet’s food. Empty pet food dishes before going to bed each night, and keep bags of dry food in mouse-proof containers such as a tightly sealed trash can or hard plastic tote.
  • Be sure your trash cans have tight lids, and never put food or garbage in open wastebaskets in your kitchen.

Your first clue of a mice infestation may be a dead mouse in your garage, pantry or other entry point. Be very careful when removing dead rodents, as they carry all kinds of diseases that can infect you and your family. Always wear rubber or plastic gloves to handle a dead mouse. Put it in a plastic bag, place that bag in a second bag and seal it tightly. Put the sealed bag in a trash container with a tight-fitting lid.

Also glove up when cleaning or disinfecting items that may be contaminated by rodents, especially garbage cans and recycling containers.  If you’ve set out traps, either throw them out with the mice, or disinfect them by soaking them in three tablespoons of bleach per gallon of water, or a commercial disinfectant containing phenol.

After disposing of mice, removing taps, and cleaning contaminated objects, keep your gloves on and wash gloved hands in soap and warm water. If you can, add a household disinfectant. Once your gloves are clean, then you can remove them and thoroughly wash your hands with soap and warm water.

If you have seen signs of mice (described in my last post), you can try to eliminate them yourself with products found in stores. These include toxic baits, rodenticides, traps, and glue boards. Be careful not to put your family at risk using what may seem to be harmless solutions. Keep in mind that anything that is bad for a mouse, is going to be bad for children and pets.

Toxic baits and rodenticides sold over the counter for homeowner use are anticoagulants containing brodifacoum, chlorophacinone, diphacinone or warfarin as active ingredients. They kill by interfering with normal clotting of the rodents’ blood, causing the animal to die from internal bleeding. It is an old wives’ tale that poisoning makes mice thirsty so they will go outside to look for water. It is more likely they will retreat back to their nests. And this can cause an odor problem if the mice die inside the house – inside walls or inaccessible areas. Take extreme care to position baits in areas inaccessible to children or pets. Dogs, in particular, are at high risk for poisoning since they are attracted to the bait and good at finding items they shouldn’t play with (how many socks has Fido stolen this week?)

Traps are safer than toxic bait and chemicals, but are still hazardous to little fingers, paws, and noses. We advise using at least a dozen traps or glue boards to be effective in do-it-yourself mouse elimination. Place them wherever you see mouse droppings or signs of gnawing.

Most hardware and farm-supply stores sell multiple-catch mouse traps that can capture and hold a dozen or more mice before they have to be emptied. But don’t leave one of these out for very long, as the smell of dead mice is quite nasty.  Using cheese as bait only works in cartoons. More effective options are gum drops, peanut butter, or a cotton ball moistened with a few drops of vanilla flavoring.

You can also find glue boards at most stores. Mice die of suffocation when they run over the boards and become stuck in the glue. Again, be careful glue boards are placed out of the way of children and pets.

Be sure to check traps sand boards several times daily and use the sanitation instructions when emptying traps and disposing of carcasses to avoid contamination. If you have found dead mice, or signs of an infestation, your best bet is to call a professional exterminator who uses stronger solutions made for commercial use that will work faster and more efficiently. There are also many pest control companies, such as Heritage Pest Control, who use ecologically friendly products.

For a free estimate, give us a call at 781-986-0701 and mention that you found us from this article.

Tim Taylor, President of Heritage Pest Control in Randolph, MA, is an expert in pest control, with more than 20 years of education and experience in residential and commercial pest control.  Tim has an extensive background in entomology, and is a member of the National and New England Pest Management Associations and the Randolph Chamber of Commerce. Tim is also a 29-year member of the National Guard and is active in national and community activities including Pop Warner Football. Heritage Pest Control serves the greater Boston area including the suburbs of Brookline, Cambridge, Brighton, Allston, Milton, Quincy, Braintree and Canton. For more information, or to contact Tim, CLICK HERE to send a note to Tim or call him at 781-986-0701.